How do I know what size chicken coop I should get?
For the henhouse, we recommend 1 foot per chicken on the roost bars. In the run, we recommend 10 square feet per chicken. Our standard Carolina Coop or American Coop has a 12' x 6' footprint, with a 4' x 6' henhouse that has two 6-foot roost bars. So, seven chickens would be comfortable in the run, if they cannot free range, and 12 chickens can roost in the henhouse. However, we suggest that you never max out your chicken coop, so you have room to grow your flock.
What's the difference between the Carolina Coop and the American Coop?
The standard Carolina Coop and the American Coop both have the same 12' x 6' footprint, with a 4' x 6' henhouse with two 6-foot roost bars. Our Carolina Coops come HDPE deep litter bed and HDPE lined nest box. It also comes with polycarbonate window inserts that can be removed from outside the coop and lift-off henhouse doors. Both coops are built with premium lumber, have black coated 1/2" hardware cloth, exterior zinc hardware, and metal roofing. Our Carolina Coops come in a variety of run and henhouse sizes, plus a bunch of other options.
With our American Coop, we don't sacrifice quality to give you the best coop at the best price. The American coop does not include the HDPE lining in the deep litter bed and egg hutch, the roofing system is simplified (we have eliminated the notched purlins and are using the ribs in the roofing for that support), the 2x4s are not planed so the eased edge remains, some trim is eliminated by using the framing as the trim (2 layers), rather than the 3 layers on the Carolina Coop - frame, henhouse wall, then trim. The henhouse screen doors are a removable panel rather than a lift off door.
Can I get different options and customize the American Coop?
Currently the American Coop can be customized with different paint and roof colors. You can also add an additional egg hutch, HDPE floor insert in the henhouse, black hardware (as pictured in photo above), 6' run extension, and the Carolina Coop roofing system.
What is the Penthouse coop?
Our Penthouse Coop is just like the Carolina Coop without the run. It's perfect for people who already have a designated run area for their chickens, but just need a quality chicken coop. It comes with all the standard features of the Carolina Coop's henhouse.
Does the henhouse need a door?
No, we design our coops and run so that it is very secure and predator proof. Plus, we either attach a predator apron on chicken coops that we install or we instruct our customers to do so and how to do it. Since there is no way a predator can enter the henhouse, a door is unnecessary. However, some clients want a door for added peace of mind or to mitigate drafts in very cold climates, but it isn't necessary.
Do I need one egg box per chicken?
No, industry standard says three to four chickens can share one egg box, however, we have many times seen six-eight chickens sharing one nest box. We find a bunch usually have a favorite and they will use that. That's why our nest boxes have dividers that can be removed, just in case there are hens with chicks or eight girls want to cuddle.
How much space should the run be for my chickens?
We recommend a minimum of 10 square feet per chicken for the run. But remember, you don't want to max it out, you want to leave room to grow your flock. Even if your chickens can free range, there may be times when they need to only be in the run.
Does the Carolina or American Coop come with the predator apron?
The predator apron is only included if you are having Carolina Coops install your coop at your location, otherwise, you have to purchase and install your predator apron. Here's a video to show you how.
What are your delivery options? How do I get a Carolina Coop to my house?
We have different options for our customers.
Coop delivered by Carolina Coops: Our team delivers your chicken coop to your home unassembled.
Shipped to U.S. & Canada or anywhere else in the world: Your coop crated and shipped via LTL (less than truckload – meaning it is shipped on a pallet). The customer has the option to have the coop on a pallet delivered to their home or they can pick it up at their local trucking terminal.
Onsite assembly or roll-off delivery by Carolina Coops: With this option your coop is either assembled by Carolina Coops onsite (on your property) or it is delivered already assembled and placed on your property.
Customer pick-up: You can pick up your unassembled chicken coop at our Shortsville, NY or Raleigh, NC shops.
Please see all our options and prices here.
Does Carolina Coops offer an onsite survey to show me where I should put my chicken coop?
We can arrange for a site survey for potential customers local to our Shortsville, NY and Raleigh, NC locations. We also are on the road a lot of the time across the U.S. and we can arrange for a onsite survey if we are nearby and if it is scheduled ahead of time.
What is the Deep Litter Method?
The deep litter method is an old-time method where you allow your coop litter to build up over a period of time, usually a year or so. We love to use HDPE to line our henhouses, which makes it ideal for the deep litter method, because it keeps the moisture needed for composting and it's easy to clean and is food safe. The Deep Litter Method starts with a good layer of pine shavings or we LOVE industrial hemp fibers. Instead of cleaning it all out every week or so and replacing it when the poop accumulates, one simply stirs up the bedding a bit with a light rake and tosses another layer of bedding on top once a week or so. Then after a year or so, you clean out all but 1-2 inch layer of the old stuff behind to help break down the new stuff.
What is Industrial Hemp and why should I use it?
Industrial hemp is a raw material that can be used to locally produce biodegradable textiles, paper, animal bedding, among other products, which would help reduce landfill growth and pollution. We love using the industrial hemp in our henhouses because it's one of the most absorbent animal bedding on the market, twice as absorbent than pine shaving or straw. It absorbs four times its weight and has minimal dust. It's softer and more comfortable for chickens and has a high thermal rating to help keep your chickens warmer while they roost. It's chemical free, biodegradable and all natural, and is less acidic and decomposes faster than pine shavings or pellets, making a perfect compost component for your garden.
What should I put in the run for my chickens? Do I need to put something special on the floor of the run?
We recommend organic material for the run of your chicken coop. So if your coop is put on the grass, mulch, or dirt, we suggest adding organic matter in there for your chickens, such as leaves, plant mulch, compost, pine shavings, straw, etc. The idea is to creative the same type of environment your chickens would have if they were free ranging.
Do I have to clean out my coop run? If so, how often?
Our Carolina and American Coops have covered runs, so they don't get muddy from the rain. We find with our chicken coops, there is little maintenance involved. If your chickens don't get to free range and are spending most of their time in their run, we suggest putting different organic matter and kitchen scraps in there to keep them busy and encourage foraging. Chickens love to find bugs in the leaves and dirt and will make quick work of wilted lettuce and other vegetables you no longer want. The chickens do all the work for the upkeep of the run. As for the henhouse, with our coops and the deep litter method, you only need to break up the droppings, occasionally add more hemp or pine shavings, and clean once a year at most.
Do I have heat my chicken coop in the winter?
The answer to this is no. Chickens can tolerate the cold very well. And heating the coop will make it harder for them to adjust to the cold. Also, if the power goes out and they are used to heat in their henhouse they could die since they were used to the heat. Chickens keep warm by trapping air between their feathers and huddling together. It's important to them to acclimate to the colder temps. In fact, chickens have a harder time in the heat than the cold. And besides a heat source being a huge fire hazard for your henhouse, it can also become a source of moisture, which is much more detrimental to your chickens and can lead to frostbite.
Can I mix different breeds of chickens?
Yes, mix it up. Bantams and standards, Wyandottes and Orpingtons. Whatever you want.
What does it mean when a hen goes broody?
When a hen is broody, it means she wants to hatch her eggs and raise chicks. You can tell if your hen has gone broody because she will sit on a nest, with or without eggs, and only leave for a few minutes a day for food and water. A broody hen may 'growl' at you when you go near her or fluff up her feathers. Some breeds of hens are more likely to become broody and some may never go broody. Some broody hens will go back to normal on their own, others will be better off with some chicks to raise. This is also a great opportunity to introduce new chickens to your flock. (see below answer)
What's the best way to introduce new chickens into my flock?
We found the best way to introduce new chickens into an existing flock is taking a cue from nature. If you have a hen that goes broody, (bantams and Cochins are good examples) you can put fertile eggs under her, or even day-old chicks (we advise to do this at night when she's calm and sleeping in her nest box) and she will raise them as her own and protect them from other members of the flock. The rest of the flock will accept the new chicks as part of their flock because they are associated with a momma hen. Otherwise, you risk chickens fighting out a new pecking order for a few weeks or more. Sometimes introducing a few new hens at a time can work fine, other times, it does not — there are no guarantees.
How do I transition my chickens to a new coop?
Chickens are creatures of habit, so the best way we found to get chickens used to their new home is to go into the old henhouse at night (usually just after it gets dark) and put them on the roost bars of their new henhouse. Chickens are super calm when it's dark and so thetask of moving them to their new roost is easier at night. When they wake up they while come out of their new henhouse and scratch around and explore. This is one time we insist that you don't let your chickens free range, just until they start going to their new henhouse at night on their own. After that, you can resume free ranging. Also, we advise that you remove the old coop, so going back there isn't an option for the chickens.
How do I get my chickens back to the coop after free ranging?
Chickens know where to go to roost. If they have roosted in their henhouse before, they will continue to do so, unless something is preventing them from getting back inside. Like we said, chickens are creatures of habits and instinctively will go 'home to roost.' If you have an automatic chicken run down, it should be set as a dawn to dusk door, so it will open when the sun comes out and close up after it gets completely dark. If your chickens are going into their henhouse on their own, maybe when they are young, or it's a new environment, or they are the occasional weird hen, you may have to physically place them on the roost and at night until they learn that's where they need to go.
Do I have to train my chickens to use the waterbar?
No. Chickens are, by nature, curious creatures and will start pecking at things to explore their world. It is also believed that chickens are attracted to the color red, which is why you will see the waterbar nipples are usually red. When chickens peck, it's like a dog sniffing, it's how they discover what's in their environment. It normally only takes chickens about 15 minutes to find and use a new waterbar. And the good this is that once one chicken does it, they all do.